Brands return to physical formats for women’s shows in Paris – WWD


PARIS – Paris Fashion Week will continue this fall with 92 brands on the official calendar, compared to 88 last season, according to the preliminary calendar published Tuesday evening by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode.

Among them, 71 will hold physical events, split into 37 shows and 32 presentations, according to France’s fashion governing body. Akris and Olivier Theyskens had not yet confirmed the format of their physical events.

All the shows will be broadcast on the Paris Fashion Week digital platform, in line with previous phy-gital seasons.

Still missing from this season’s calendar are Celine, Saint Laurent, Off-White, Alexander McQueen, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons and Sacai, whose designer Chitose Abe designed Jean Paul Gaultier’s Spring 2022 collection last July. Jil Sander also joins the list of absentees this season, as does Thom Browne, who will be on display in New York.

Others not pictured include Altuzarra, Each x Other, Mashama, Paco Rabanne, Jarel Zhang, Maison Mai, Ellery, Kristina Fidelskaya, Anton Belinskiy, Mazarine, Lecourt Mansion and Jitrois. Last season’s new entries Takahiromiyashita The Soloist, Ujoh, Ninamounah, Lourdes and Wataru Tominaga have also been dropped from the schedule.

LVMH Prize winner Kenneth Ize opens the nine-day season, while fashion start-up AZ Factory will close the Spring 2022 edition of Paris Fashion Week with a celebration in memory of its late designer Alber Elbaz, as indicated previously.

The Chinese luxury house Shang Xia enters the calendar for the first time.

Among the major brands returning to the calendar are Balenciaga, Loewe and Maison Margiela, as well as Valentino, who paraded in Milan last season, and Paul Smith, who favored the eponymous designer’s native land, London.

Rochas is also back for the debut of Charles de Vilmorin at the head of the legendary Parisian label, as is Olivier Theyskens.

After being out of the program last season, Ann Demeulemeester will unveil the first female outing after its acquisition in 2020 by Antonioli.

In line with increasingly fluid offerings, Raf Simons is leading brands usually from the menswear calendar entering the womenswear calendar. He previously added feminine looks in his menswear line. Ludovic de Saint Sernin and Botter have also migrated to the calendar this season.

Hosting their first showings on the official schedule, Shanghai-based genderless label Didu; Lecavalier of Canada, and the French brands Minuit and Alexandre Blanc, which previously participated in the Sphere showroom at the FHCM.

The September 2021 promotion includes Alexis Mabille, Lacoste, Ungaro, Victoria/Tomas, Agnès b. and Ester Manas.

While the rise in Delta variant cases continues to be of concern, organizers have indicated that a health pass, which shows proof of vaccination or a recent negative test result, will be mandatory for spectators.


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